Dhaka

Sadarghat

One of the world's busiest river ports, where launches leave for the south.

Local food to try

  • River fish and rice

    Sadarghat

    Simple fish curry with rice at the eateries that feed launch passengers and port workers.

  • Kacchi biryani

    Sadarghat

    Old Dhaka’s signature dish, a short rickshaw ride away in Nazira Bazar.

  • Milk tea

    Sadarghat

    Sweet, strong tea from the stalls along the ghats — the fuel of the port.

Where to eat

  • Nazira Bazar and Bangshal

    Old Dhaka

    The heart of Old Dhaka food, with Haji Biryani (since 1939), kebab stalls and sweet shops.

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  • Eateries around the terminal

    Sadarghat

    Rice-and-curry hotels and tea stalls for a quick, cheap meal before a launch.

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Where to stay

  • Motijheel and Paltan

    Central Dhaka

    Budget hotels closest to the port, handy before or after a launch journey.

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  • Dhanmondi

    Central Dhaka

    Mid-range hotels in a calmer part of the city, about an hour from the port in traffic.

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Culture

Sadarghat is where much of southern Bangladesh arrives in and leaves the capital. Before Eid, families crowd the launches with bags and gifts for the journey home, and the evening departures — horns sounding, lights coming on along the decks — are one of the great sights of river life in the country.

History

Sadarghat is Dhaka’s main river port, on the north bank of the Buriganga. For centuries the river was the city’s highway, and the ghats of this stretch have been landing places for boats and traders since long before the modern terminal was built.

Today large multi-deck passenger launches leave from here for the south of the country — Barishal, Patuakhali, Bhola, Chandpur and many smaller river towns — most of them overnight. Alongside them, wooden rowing boats ferry people across the river to Keraniganj all day long.

The terminal itself is functional rather than beautiful; the reason to come is the life on the water. Launches jostle at the pontoons, porters carry loads on their heads, hawkers sell everything from tea to toys, and the river is crowded with boats from dawn till night.

Tour plans

A morning on the Buriganga

Half a day
  1. Step 1: Sadarghat at dawn

    Arrive early to see the overnight launches come in from the south and unload.

  2. Step 2: Across the river

    Take a rowing boat across to Keraniganj and back for the view of the city from the water.

  3. Step 3: Ahsan Manzil

    Walk a few minutes along the river to the Nawabs’ pink palace and museum.

  4. Step 4: Star Mosque and the Armenian Church

    A short rickshaw ride to Armanitola for two of Old Dhaka’s most unusual buildings.

Map

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Plan your visit

Best time to visit

October to March. Come early in the morning, or in the late afternoon when the evening launches load and leave.

How to get there

At the southern end of Old Dhaka: a rickshaw from Gulistan, or a bus or CNG to the terminal.

Getting around

  • Rowing boats (kheya) cross the Buriganga to Keraniganj from the ghats all day; agree the fare before you step in.
  • You can also hire a small boat for a short trip along the river front to see the launches and Ahsan Manzil from the water.
  • On land, walk or take a rickshaw — cars barely move in the lanes around the port.

Travel tips

  • Keep your phone, wallet and bag close: the crowds are dense and pickpocketing happens.
  • An entry ticket is needed to go onto the terminal pontoons — buy it at the counter, not from people offering help.
  • Watch your step on the pontoons and boats, especially when launches are docking.
  • If you are taking a launch south, book a cabin in advance and arrive well before departure.
  • Avoid the days before and after Eid, when the terminal is packed with people heading home.
  • Old Dhaka traffic around the port is very slow; allow plenty of time.

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