Sunamganj, Sylhet
A green hillock on the bank of the clear Jadukata river, right under the Meghalaya hills, with one of the best river views in the north-east.
The hillock is home to Garo and Hajong families. The Panatirtha bathing festival on the Jadukata and the urs at Shah Arefin’s shrine nearby draw large crowds on their days; dates follow the lunar calendars, so check locally.
Barikkatila is a low, grassy hill on the bank of the Jadukata river in Tahirpur, where the river comes out of the Meghalaya hills onto the plain. From the top you look down on the wide sandy bed and the clear, blue-green water, with the hills of India rising just across the border.
The Jadukata carries sand and stone down from the hills, and boats and workers collecting them are part of the scene. Small Garo and Hajong villages and betel and fruit gardens dot the hillock.
The area also has a long religious history. Nearby is Laur, an old kingdom remembered in local legend, and the Jadukata is the site of the Panatirtha bathing festival, when Hindu pilgrims gather at the river; the shrine of Shah Arefin, a Muslim saint, also lies in the area.
From Tahirpur or a houseboat, head to the Jadukata by motorbike or boat.
Climb the hillock and watch the light come up over the river and the hills.
Walk down to the Jadukata’s sandy bank and, if the water is calm, wade at the edge.
Visit the Shimul garden nearby, then return to Tahirpur for lunch.
November to March for clear water and dry paths; the monsoon for full rivers and green hills
From Sunamganj town, about 1.5–2 hours by motorbike or CNG towards Tahirpur and the Jadukata; the last stretch may need a short boat crossing of the river. In the wet season you can also come by boat across the haor. The Shimul garden is close by.
