Natore, Rajshahi
The palace of the Natore rajas, set among ponds and old gardens.
Natore is woven into Bangla literature: Jibanananda Das’s poem Banalata Sen immortalised “Natore’s Banalata Sen”, and the name still makes Bangla readers smile. The town is just as proud of its kacha golla.
The Natore Rajbari was the seat of the Natore Raj, a zamindari founded in the early 18th century that grew into one of the largest estates in Bengal. Its most famous ruler was Rani Bhabani, who took charge of the estate after her husband’s death and governed it for decades in the 18th century. She is still remembered for her charity — for the temples, roads, tanks and guesthouses she paid for across Bengal and as far as Varanasi.
The palace grounds hold two groups of buildings, known as the Bara Torof and Chhota Torof, along with temples, ponds and old gardens, all within a wide walled compound. Much of it is faded, but the setting among the water and the trees is peaceful.
Natore also has a second palace, the former Dighapatia Rajbari, now known as Uttara Gonobhaban, the northern residence of the head of state — a separate visit in the same town.
Leave Rajshahi early and stop at Puthia’s temples for an hour or two.
Walk the grounds of Rani Bhabani’s palace, among the ponds and old buildings.
Eat in town and try Natore’s famous sweet.
If visitors are being admitted, see the old Dighapatia palace before heading back.
October to March, in the morning or afternoon; the grounds are pleasant for a slow walk
Buses reach Natore town in about 1–1.5 hours; the palace is a short rickshaw ride from there.
